Dublin

Dublin is small, warm, literary, and very thirsty — the city of Joyce + Wilde + Beckett + Yeats, and also Europe’s most-drinking capital. Temple Bar is a tourist trap but real pub culture is 5 minutes away. 3 days does the city, then you should head out to Cliffs of Moher and Galway.

Best time to visit

May–September ideal: 14–20°C (summer), long days (light past 10:30 PM). Rainy year-round (300 days) — bring a waterproof, not just an umbrella. March 17 St. Patrick’s Day is incredible but book hotels 6 months out at 3× rates. December dark (still night at 8 AM) and chilly (4–8°C). October–November wet but cheapest.

How many days?

2–3 days for central Dublin: Trinity College + Book of Kells + Guinness + Temple Bar + Kilmainham Gaol. 4–5 days for Cliffs of Moher (1 hour from Galway) and Connemara. Full Ireland loop (Belfast + Galway + Dingle Peninsula) is 7–10 days — rent a car (left-hand drive, narrow roads).

What to see

Trinity College + Book of Kells (1,200-year-old manuscript, the Long Room library looks like a Harry Potter set — 18.50€ pre-book), Guinness Storehouse (7-floor brewery museum, panoramic top-floor Gravity Bar — 26€), Kilmainham Gaol (1916 Easter Rising prison tour — 8€ pre-book opening slot), Christ Church Cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Temple Bar (touristy but live one evening), Grafton Street shopping, St. Stephen’s Green park, Dublin Castle, EPIC migration museum (won Europe’s top museum award — 18€). Lesser known: Ha’penny Bridge, Phoenix Park (Europe’s largest city park, deer roam), Howth fishing village (25-min DART, cliff walk), Glendalough monastery (40 min outside).

Food & drink

Full Irish breakfast: eggs + sausage + bacon + black pudding + beans + tomato + soda bread. Boxty (Irish potato pancakes) — Gallagher’s Boxty House. Irish stew (lamb + potato + carrot). Fish and chips: Leo Burdock (since 1913). Restaurants: The Pig’s Ear, The Winding Stair (above a bookstore). Pub food: The Brazen Head (1198, claims world’s oldest), Mulligan’s, Kehoe’s. Beer: Guinness obviously (tastes different at the source) — 6.50€/pint in Dublin. Whiskey: Jameson, Tullamore, Redbreast. Music: Cobblestone pub for trad music nights.

Getting around

DART (suburban rail) + Luas (tram) + Dublin Bus: Leap Card 5€ + balance, contactless works. Single 2–3€, day pass 8€. Dublin Bus 7-day 32€. Center fully walkable (Liffey two banks, 30 min across). Dublin Airport: Aircoach or Dublin Express bus 7€ 30 min, taxi 25–35€. Local taxi or Bolt are interchangeable. Car rental: Avis/Hertz at airport; left-hand drive + manual transmission — adjusts in an hour.

Things to watch out for

Temple Bar is a true tourist trap: pint 9€ (normal 6€), real pubs around George’s and Aungier Street. Pickpockets rare but Grafton + Henry Street get crowded. Weather: 4 seasons in a day — cold to warm, drizzle to downpour. Pack waterproof + spare socks. Smoking: indoor banned, outdoor fine. ATMs: AIB, Bank of Ireland are safe. Ireland is in the EU but NOT Schengen — separate visa rules (ETA from 2025 for many). Pub closing 11:30 PM weekdays, 2:30 AM weekends.

Budget estimate

Economy €60–100/day (hostel, supermarket + 1 pub, transit). Mid €130–200/day (3★ hotel, restaurants + 2 pubs, museum). Luxury €300–700/day (4–5★, fine dining, Cliffs helicopter tour). 3-day mid trip €400–700 (flights excluded). Flights from Europe €40–200 (Aer Lingus, Ryanair). Hotels pricey: 3★ mid is €130–200/night. Cliffs of Moher tour €40–70 day trip. Pint 6–8€, not cheap.