Hanoi
From Halong Bay to Saigon’s streets — pho, coffee and the hum of scooters.
Vietnam packs mountains, beaches, rivers, mist and scooter engines into a thin strip from north to south. Getting lost in Hanoi’s old quarter, a night on Halong Bay, lantern-lit Hoi An, Saigon’s chaos — you see five Vietnams in one trip. And yes, the pho is worth it.
Best time to visit
North (Hanoi, Halong): Oct–Apr is cool and dry; Dec–Feb 10–18°C, Jun–Aug sticky-hot. Central (Hoi An, Danang): Feb–May dry, Sep–Nov typhoon risk. South (Saigon, Mekong): Dec–Apr dry, May–Nov rainy. For the whole country: Feb–Apr or Sep–Oct are ideal. Tet (Vietnamese New Year, late Jan or early Feb) — the country shuts down; avoid or embrace.
How many days?
12–15 days to travel the length of the country. Hanoi 2 + Halong 2 (overnight cruise) + Sapa 2 (rice terraces), central Hoi An 2–3 + Danang 1, south Saigon 2 + Mekong Delta 1–2. North only? 7 days. South + central? 8 days. Flying between regions saves real time.
What to see
Hanoi Old Quarter (Hoan Kiem Lake), Halong Bay overnight cruise (2D/1N package), Sapa trekking (Fansipan summit or village homestay). Ninh Binh “dry Halong” (Trang An sampan tour). Hoi An ancient town (lantern-lit UNESCO site), Danang beach. My Son Cham ruins. Saigon: Notre Dame + War Remnants Museum + Cu Chi Tunnels. Mekong Delta boat to Can Tho.
Food & drink
Pho (northern pho bo/beef, southern pho ga/chicken — same name, different cooking), banh mi (French baguette with Vietnamese fillings — Banh Mi Phuong in Hoi An is famous), bun cha (grilled pork + noodles — Obama had it in Hanoi), goi cuon (summer rolls), cao lau (Hoi An’s signature noodle). Vietnamese coffee (sweet condensed-milk + strong espresso, iced “ca phe sua da”). Try egg coffee in Hanoi.
Getting around
Domestic flights are cheap (VietJet, Bamboo — Hanoi–Saigon 2 hrs, $40–80). Night trains/buses are popular but 10+ hrs. In-city Grab is everywhere; scooters are fun in smaller spots like Hoi An. Scooter rental ~$8–10/day — helmet + common sense, traffic is intense. Taxis: stick to Mailinh or Vinasun; others sometimes meter-game.
Things to watch out for
Drive-by bag snatches happen in Hanoi’s Old Quarter — wear your bag in front. “Bonus meals” on boat tours can be upcharged — ask what’s included. Drink bottled water only. Visa: e-visa online is $25 (the airport isn’t reliable — you can get fined). Tet shuts most places down; check the date. Dong has lots of zeros — million-note bills are normal, watch your decimals.
Budget estimate
Economy: $25–35/day (hostel, street food, local transit). Mid: $50–80/day (3★ hotel, mixed food, one activity). Luxury: $150–300/day (4–5★, private boat, fine dining). Halong overnight cruise $100–250/person. A balanced 12-day trip runs $700–1,100. Flights from Europe: €450–700. Dong/USD rate swings; hotels often accept USD.