Istanbul
Two continents, one city — the Bosphorus, bazaars and 1,500 years of layers.
You can’t reduce Istanbul to “history.” The history is there — but the city is really food + people + streets. 6 AM call to prayer, 8 AM simit cart, 11 PM meze tavern in Karaköy, 1 AM bar in Kadıköy — same day. Two continents, 1,500 years, 16 million people — overwhelming at first, addictive once you find the rhythm.
Best time to visit
April–June and September–October are ideal: 18–25°C, low rain, free linden and tulip aroma. July–August is hot (32°C) and humid with peak crowds — only the Bosphorus saves you. December–February is cold (4–10°C) but hotels are cheap, the Bosphorus steams, and the simit + salep combo is unbeatable. Avoid Ramadan and Bayram if you dislike crowds.
How many days?
4–5 days is balanced. Sultanahmet (Hagia Sophia + Topkapı + Basilica Cistern) 1 day, Galata + Istiklal + Karaköy 1 day, Bosphorus cruise + Beşiktaş/Ortaköy 1 day, Asian side (Kadıköy + Moda + Üsküdar) 1 day, shopping/hammam 1 day. 7 days is generous but the city wears you out. History only? 3 days. Food only? 3 days isn’t enough.
What to see
Hagia Sophia + Blue Mosque + Topkapı + Basilica Cistern (half a day). Galata Tower (sunset) + Istiklal + Karaköy mezecis. Süleymaniye (Sinan’s masterpiece). Bosphorus tour Eminönü → Anadolu Kavağı (90 min). Under-the-radar: Pierre Loti hill in Eyüp, colorful Balat houses, Çukurcuma antiques, Kuzguncuk waterfront, Bebek–Arnavutköy walk, Kadıköy market + Moda pier, Çamlıca hill.
Food & drink
Must-try: simit + tea from a cart (~$1), Turkish breakfast (Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir), fish sandwich at Eminönü, İskender kebab (Beyti or Bursa İskenderhisarı), stuffed mussels in Beyoğlu, künefe (Hafız Mustafa). Turkish coffee: Mandabatmaz (off Istiklal). Historic: Pandeli (Spice Bazaar), Çiya Sofrası (Kadıköy — Anatolian dishes). Fine dining: Mikla, Neolokal. Drinks: ayran, şalgam, fresh pomegranate juice from carts.
Getting around
Get an İstanbulKart at the airport, use it for everything. Marmaray (under-Bosphorus train) crosses continents in 4 min. Metro/tram/bus/ferry all on one card. Ferry Eminönü–Kadıköy 25 min (~$0.50) — the city’s best transport. Taxis: use BiTaksi or Uber and keep the map open to avoid the long-route trick. IST airport 45–90 min to center, SAW 60–90 min. Skip the bridges, Marmaray always wins.
Things to watch out for
Classic shoe-shiner “dropped brush” trick — don’t pick it up, keep walking. In Sultanahmet, decline anyone who attaches as a “guide.” In Beyoğlu, “let’s go to a bar together” → €500 bill scam (especially solo male tourists). If a cabbie says “card machine is broken,” stop the car and get out. Jewelry shop “discounts” are fake. Watch your change at street stalls — wrong notes happen fast. Inside mosques: cover head + shoulders + knees (skirts provided at door).
Budget estimate
Economy: €30–50/day (hostel, street food, transit). Mid: €70–120/day (3★ hotel or Sultanahmet/Galata Airbnb, restaurants, one museum). Luxury: €200–400/day (4–5★ Bosphorus-view hotel, fine dining, hammam). A 5-day mid trip is €600–800 (flights excluded). Flights from Europe: €80–200 (Pegasus/Turkish/SunExpress direct). Museum Pass Istanbul ~€20 / 15 days — already needed for Hagia Sophia + Topkapı.