Kyoto

If Tokyo is Japan’s present, Kyoto is its past — capital for 1,000 years, narrowly removed from the WWII A-bomb list, 1,600 temples and 400 shrines still standing. Walking through Fushimi Inari’s 10,000 vermilion gates at dawn, then watching geisha cross a Gion alley at dusk — there’s no other version of this anywhere.

Best time to visit

Late March to early April for cherry blossom (sakura) — magical but everywhere is packed and hotels triple. November for autumn leaves (kōyō) — as beautiful as sakura, slightly less crowded. May–June pleasant 20–25°C but mid-June starts monsoon. July–August 35°C and humid — Gion Matsuri festival (July) is incredible but the heat is brutal. December–February 0–8°C, quiet and meditative — winter is its own beautiful trip.

How many days?

3–4 days ideal: 1 day east (Kiyomizu-dera + Gion + Yasaka), 1 day northwest (Kinkaku-ji golden pavilion + Ryoan-ji zen garden + Arashiyama bamboo), 1 day south (Fushimi Inari + Tofuku-ji), 1 day Nara day trip (deer park). 5+ days adds Osaka (half hour by train), Hiroshima. 2 days squeezed = exhausting sprint.

What to see

Fushimi Inari Taisha (10,000 red torii — go at 7 AM, daytime is selfie chaos), Kiyomizu-dera (wooden terrace, dramatic in cherry season), Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion, 30-min photo stop), Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion — calmer), Arashiyama bamboo grove (go at 7 AM), Tenryu-ji temple + riverside, Gion district (Hanami-koji geisha street — 5–7 PM), Nishiki Market (covered food market), Philosopher’s Path (canal walk, dreamy in cherry season). Lesser known: Sanjusangen-do (1,001 Kannon statues), Tofuku-ji (autumn leaves), Daitoku-ji sub-temples.

Food & drink

Kaiseki: multi-course Japanese haute cuisine (Kyoto’s signature, 8,000–25,000¥/person), Gion Karyo or Kichisen. Kyo-yasai (Kyoto vegetables) and tofu-based dishes — vegetarian heaven (yudofu at Tousuiro). Matcha: Tsujiri, Nakamura Tokichi (Uji is 30 min away — real-deal). Ramen: Ippudo, Ichiran (Tokyo chains but here too). Cheap lunch: teishoku set menus 1,000–1,500¥ everywhere. Street: Nishiki Market dashimaki tamago (sweet omelet), takoyaki, dango. Sake: head to Fushimi (Gekkeikan museum).

Getting around

Bus + metro: ICOCA card (Suica/Pasmo equivalent — works in Tokyo too). Single 230¥, day bus pass 700¥. Bike rental 1,000¥/day — Kyoto is flat, perfect (especially spring). Kyoto City Bus is touristy and slow + crowded — metro is faster (Karasuma + Tozai lines). JR from Kyoto: Osaka 15 min, Nara 45 min. Shinkansen from Tokyo 2h 14m, 14,170¥ (covered by JR Pass).

Things to watch out for

Geisha photos: shooting geisha without consent in Gion is now banned (10,000¥ fine) — keep distance. Temples: quiet voice, photo bans (especially interiors). Shoe removal: where there’s tatami or you’re inside a temple — the “genkan” (entryway) is the clue. Restaurants don’t have “gaijin” pricing, but some authentic Gion spots are regulars-only — reservations needed. Don’t tip — it’s seen as rude. Wi-Fi is rare — set up pocket Wi-Fi or a SIM in advance. Late Feb–March is the start of “shun” seasonal cuisine.

Budget estimate

Economy €60–100/day (hostel/Airbnb, ramen/teishoku, bus pass). Mid €150–250/day (3★ hotel/ryokan, mixed restaurants, 3 temple entries). Luxury €500–2,000/day (luxury ryokan with kaiseki, fine dining). 4-day mid trip €700–1,200 (flights excluded). Flights from Europe €600–1,100 (12 hours). Sakura season is 2–3× — November is more reasonable. Temple entries are 400–600¥ — average 3 temples a day.