Munich
Beer gardens, Bavaria and the foothills of the Alps.
Munich is Germany’s “good life” capital — Berlin has the alternative scene, Hamburg the maritime character, Munich the classic Bavarian + beer-garden + Alps-an-hour-away vibe. Germany’s most expensive city, but also its most polished. Outside Oktoberfest the tourist crush is minimal and you get real Bavarian culture.
Best time to visit
May–June and September–October are gold: 18–25°C, biergarten season, Englischer Garten alive. Late September–first week October is Oktoberfest — +1 million tourists, hotels book 6 months out at 4× rates (smarter to train in from Augsburg or Salzburg). December has stunning Christmas markets (Marienplatz + Viktualienmarkt) but -2°C. January–February calm and cheap, ski Garmisch is a 30-min train away.
How many days?
3 days for the city + 1–2 days for Bavarian Alps day trip (Neuschwanstein Castle + Hohenschwangau). 4–5 days is balanced. 1 day Marienplatz + Frauenkirche + Viktualienmarkt + Englischer Garten, 1 day Nymphenburg Palace + BMW Welt + Olympic Park, 1 day museums (Pinakothek + Deutsches) + Schwabing cafés. Salzburg (1.5h train) is an easy add.
What to see
Marienplatz (Glockenspiel clock show 11 AM, 12 PM, 5 PM at the New Town Hall), Frauenkirche (Munich’s twin-tower symbol), Viktualienmarkt (daily food market since 1807 + biergarten in the middle), Englischer Garten (bigger than NYC Central Park, year-round Eisbach surf wave), Hofbräuhaus (classic 1589 beer hall — touristy but go once), Nymphenburg Palace (Bavarian royal summer residence + park), BMW Welt + Museum (Welt is free 4-floor showroom, Museum 10€), Pinakothek trio (Alte + Neue + Moderne, Thursday evening 1€), Deutsches Museum (world’s largest science museum). Lesser known: Eisbach surf wave (surfer hangout), Asamkirche (tiny baroque masterpiece), Olympic Park + hill walk, Tierpark Hellabrunn zoo.
Food & drink
Weisswurst (white sausage) — must be eaten before noon (genuine Bavarian rule): with sweet mustard + pretzel + wheat beer. Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle, 1 kg+), Schnitzel, Spätzle (Bavarian noodles), Obatzda (cheese spread), pretzels on every corner. Beer: Augustiner (local favorite, Helles), Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten, Löwenbräu (the 6 royal breweries). Biergarten: Augustiner Keller (5,000-seat classic), Chinesischer Turm (in Englischer Garten), Hofbräukeller (different from Hofbräuhaus, more local). Breakfast: Café Frischhut (schmalznudel — Bavarian fried dough). Sunday: street food at Viktualienmarkt.
Getting around
U-Bahn + S-Bahn + tram + bus: MVV unified. Single 4€, day pass 9.20€, 3-day 21.50€, week 32.50€. Contactless works. Center walkable but Englischer Garten is 5 km long. Bike: Munich is bike-friendly (one of Europe’s best), MVG Rad cheap. Munich airport: S-Bahn S1/S8 40 min 13.60€, taxi 60–80€. Bayrische Oberlandbahn for Garmisch or Berchtesgaden. To Salzburg: Meridian/ÖBB train 1.5h 30–50€.
Things to watch out for
Oktoberfest tents need reservations; only morning open seating (10 AM) lets you grab a table without one. Real Bavarian dirndl/lederhosen costs 200€+, the plastic tourist version is 50€ — locals can tell. “Stammtisch”-marked tables are reserved for regulars. Tipping 5–10%, state the rounded number when paying (“15 euros” for a 13.50 bill). Sundays shops closed (except tourist zones). U21 alcohol checks are real. EU passports visa-free 90 days. Cards still rare — keep cash on you.
Budget estimate
Economy €70–110/day (hostel, supermarket + 1 biergarten, MVV day pass). Mid €130–220/day (3★ hotel, restaurants, 2 museums + a palace). Luxury €350–800/day (5★ Bayerischer Hof, fine dining, opera/Bayern match). 4-day mid trip €600–900 (flights excluded). Oktoberfest pricing is 2.5×. Flights from Europe €40–250 (Lufthansa, Easyjet). Neuschwanstein day tour 80–120€. Bayern Munich match 80–250€ depending on category.