Paris
A bit over-hyped? Maybe. But one sunset from a café and you get it.
Before you go, you think Paris is over-hyped. You arrive and think the same thing — for day one. Day two you’re in a café, the light hits differently, an hour passes with a pain au chocolat, and you get quiet. It isn’t cheap, it isn’t easy, sometimes it’s cold — but once it lands, you keep coming back.
Best time to visit
April–June and September–October are ideal: 15–22°C, flowers or fall colors. July–August is hot and packed, plus many bistros take their “fermeture annuelle” vacation. December is lovely with Christmas markets. November and February are cheap but grey. May 1 and July 14 are holidays — most things shut. Mondays close most museums; Tuesdays close the Louvre — check before planning.
How many days?
4–5 days is the classic first-visit length. Louvre + Orsay + Eiffel + Notre Dame + Montmartre + Marais walk = 4 full days. Museum-focused? 6 days. Add Versailles + Giverny + Reims day trips? 7. Three days works if you sprint — better to avoid.
What to see
Must-do: Louvre (go early, Mona Lisa thins out — Orsay is arguably better for art), Eiffel Tower (sunset + hourly sparkle), Notre Dame exterior + restoration, Sainte-Chapelle (stained glass), Musée Rodin, Sacré-Cœur + Montmartre. Neighborhoods: Marais (old market + Picasso Museum), Saint-Germain, Canal Saint-Martin (local life). Versailles as a day trip. Catacombs are creepy but fascinating.
Food & drink
Start at a boulangerie — fresh baguette + croissant (€1–2). Bistro classics: steak frites, boeuf bourguignon, confit de canard, French onion soup, crème brûlée. Falafel at L’As du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers. Wine + cheese from any fromagerie: €5–8 of Comté or Camembert. Le Comptoir Du Relais is approachable Michelin-adjacent. Café rule: €1.50 at the bar standing, €5 at a table — that’s the gap.
Getting around
Metro (14 lines) + RER (suburban) + bus on one ticket (Navigo Easy or mobile) is fastest. Carnet is gone; T+ ticket is €2.15. Day of heavy use? Navigo Liberté or Paris Visite. Vélib bike rental is cheap but traffic-heavy in spots; the city is excellent to walk. Uber and Bolt work; metro still beats traffic. From CDG: RER B (€11) or Roissybus (€13) are sanest.
Things to watch out for
Pickpockets: Metro line 1 and around the Eiffel are top spots. Bag in front, phone out of sight. “Sign this petition” scams on the Sacré-Cœur steps are a classic. Restaurants: “menu touristique” is usually bad — “plat du jour” is the honest pick. Use Uber/Bolt over street taxis (meter games happen). Most supermarkets close Sunday — shop Saturday.
Budget estimate
Economy: €100–150/day (hostel, boulangerie breakfast, metro, 1 free museum). Mid: €180–280/day (3★ hotel, bistro, museum pass). Luxury: €400+/day (4–5★, starred dinner). 5-day balanced trip (excluding flights): €900–1,500. Flights from Istanbul: €150–300. Paris Museum Pass (4-day, €70) pays off if you museum hard. Restaurants include 10% service; small cash tip is nice.