Seoul

Seoul is the clearest example of the “future + tradition” paradox — 600-year-old Joseon palaces sit next to the world’s fastest 5G. K-pop, fried chicken + beer (chimaek), 24-hour cafés, malls 30 meters underground. The city really is awake all the time. 4 days for the real Seoul, 7 days adding Busan/Jeju covers Korea.

Best time to visit

April–May (cherry blossom + mild) and September–October (maple + cool) are gold: 15–22°C. Mid-June to July is monsoon, July–August 33°C and humid. December–February can hit -10°C (dry cold) — good for skiing or jjimjilbang sauna culture. September Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) closes businesses for 3 days.

How many days?

4 days ideal: 1 day palaces (Gyeongbokgung + Bukchon Hanok + Insadong), 1 day modern (Hongdae + Gangnam + COEX), 1 day traditional markets + DMZ tour, 1 day nightlife (Myeongdong + Itaewon + Han River). 5–7 days adds Busan (KTX 2.5 hours) + Jeju Island (1-hour flight). 2 days squeezed = palace + Hongdae combo only.

What to see

Gyeongbokgung Palace (largest Joseon palace, free entry if you rent a hanbok), Bukchon Hanok Village (traditional Korean homes, go at 9 AM), Changdeokgung Palace + Secret Garden (reservation required), N Seoul Tower (sunset), Hongdae (university area, street performances), Gangnam (Apgujeong boutiques + COEX library), Myeongdong (shopping + street food), Itaewon (foreigner bars + international food), Han River parks (Yeouido, Banpo Bridge fountain show). Lesser known: Ihwa Mural Village, Bukhansan National Park (1-hour trek inside the city), Mangwon Market, Naksan Park wall walk.

Food & drink

Korean BBQ: Maple Tree House (Itaewon), Mapo Galbi street — 25,000–40,000 KRW/person. Bibimbap: Gogung (Insadong), Jeonju style. Kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), bulgogi, japchae. Street food: Myeongdong (tornado potato, hotteok winter pancake), Gwangjang Market (mayak gimbap = “drug sushi,” mung bean pancake bindae-tteok). Chimaek: fried chicken + beer — Kyochon, BBQ Chicken chains. Soju is everywhere (3,500 KRW/bottle, 16% — pace yourself). Café culture is unhinged: 50+ themed cafés in Hongdae alone.

Getting around

Metro has 23 lines, one of the world’s biggest: T-money card 4,000 KRW + balance. Single ride 1,450 KRW, no day pass but 1 week ~5,000 KRW. Bus + metro combined fare. Incheon airport: AREX express 43 min 11,000 KRW (€7), all-stop 11,000 but 60 min. Kakao T (instead of Uber) is cheap: 5 km 6,000 KRW. KTX bullet train: Seoul–Busan 2.5h 60,000 KRW. Walking: Seoul is hilly but the metro is huge — you’ll use it.

Things to watch out for

Korean age math is unique: born = 1 year old, +1 every New Year (in 2023 they switched to international standard but locals are mixed). Drugs = death penalty (as strict as Singapore). DMZ tour: open to most passports but reserve 24 hours ahead — passport required. Don’t tip — it’s strange. Restaurant service call: there’s a buzzer on the table, press it. Wi-Fi free everywhere. Apple Pay launched 2023 — Samsung Pay and cash still dominant. EU/UK passports visa-free 90 days.

Budget estimate

Economy €50–80/day (hostel/goshiwon, street food + chimaek, metro). Mid €100–180/day (3★ hotel, restaurants, K-pop café). Luxury €300–700/day (4–5★, fine dining, private skincare session). 4-day mid trip €500–800 (flights excluded). Flights from Europe €500–900 (Korean Air/Asiana 11h direct). Hotels: Hongdae/Myeongdong mid 100–150€, Gangnam pricey 200€+. Skincare 30–50% cheaper — Olive Young is the go-to.